It was the perfect spot. Our California ranch style house had a large
picture window in the front room. The window extended from a few inches
above the floor to only a few inches below the cathedral ceiling. The
walls and ceiling were redwood stained knotty pine and the floor was a
matching hardwood. The window looked out over a flower bed, shrubs and
the expanse of front lawn. It was the perfect window to be replaced with
a bay window.
The
window was nearly square. It was 72 X 72 inches. We considered a bow
window, but elected to install a bay window instead. We just felt that
our particular house looked better with three panel bay window rather
than the multiple panel bow windows. Our intent was to fill the seat
board of the bay with potted plants we had sitting in front of the
current picture window. The new arrangement would give us a little more
space in the room and improve the overall appearance of the house. It
was time to go shopping.
Scratch vs. Pre-built Bay Windows
When we first got the idea of installing the new window, I began gathering plans for building bay windows.
Thumbing through books and magazines, and the Internet search engines, I
found several plans for building bay, casement and garden windows from
scratch. I also found that undertaking such a project was going to be
unnecessary. Most of the major window manufacturers, such as Pella,
Milgard and Anderson make both completely pre-assembled bay windows as
well as pre-built components for replacement windows.
These days
very few contractors will take on the project of building a bay or bow
window from scratch. It simply isn't practical when for the same or less
money they can install a high quality pre-built window. If the
contractors use pre-built windows or components for new house
construction or renovation projects, then we could do the same for our
remodeling project, we reasoned.
Installing a bay window can
easily be a do-it-yourselfer project. Before you go the diy route,
however, you may want to line up a contractor to help out if necessary.
This is not going to be a job that you can complete during a Saturday
afternoon. Chances are you are not going to finish it in a weekend, for
that matter.
You are also going to want to line up some help. Bay
windows and window components are heavy. At least they are too heavy for
one person to manage.
Be sure and check out the weather forecast,
including the long range forecast. Installing the window means opening a
hole into your home. It can take a couple of days to get the new window
in place and sealed. The last thing you want is for rain to come
pouring in on your floor, walls or furniture.
Be sure and check
your city or community construction codes. There may be special local
requirements, such as having safety glass in low profile windows. You
are probably going to need a building permit anyway, so that is also a
good time to check the codes.
Tools and Materials Needed
The
tools you will need for this project include a tape measure, a framing
square that you can also use as a straight edge, a circular saw or miter
saw, crow bars, drill and bits, level, stapler, utility knife, tin
snips and a caulking gun.
The materials you will need include the
bay window unit, the support brackets, nails, roofing paper, shingles,
roofing nails, exterior grade silicone caulking and fiberglass
insulation. You will also need 1X6 inch boards for the window skirting.
If you are enlarging an existing window, or if you are installing the
window in a space that was previously the wall, you will also need 2X4s
for cripple studs and additional framing.
Basic Installation Steps
1.
Establish window position in the wall. Remove the existing window.
Measuring the bay window, mark on the exterior of the house the opening
needed for the new window. Using your circular saw, cut the rdquired
opening.
2. Framing. Build the framing for the new window. This
will likely include cutting through existing studs and putting in a new
header, rough sill, jack studs and cripple studs.
3. Install the
support braces. A window up to five feet wide will take a minimum of two
support braces. A wider window will need three.
4. Set the window
in place. Lift the bay window on the support braces and slide it into
the rough opening. Shim as necessary to level the window. Anchor in
place.
5. Build the window roof. Set the roof frame on top of the
bay window unit and nail in place. Fill the space between the roof and
the top of the bay window with insulation. Fasten the roof sheeting to
the frame and cover with roofing paper. Install the drip edges and the
flashing and then shingle.
6. Install the window skirting around
the bottom of the window. Fill will insulation and then attach the skirt
bottom to seal the underneath side of the window.
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